Galapagos

Galapagos. A bucket list experience, and one that we were the most excited about. I have watched Master and Commander, I had that same feeling of excitement that the doctor did. Big bunny is an animal lover, and little bunny was about to land in Instagram heaven, follow her @miss.tiff.travels. We flew from Quito to San Cristobal Island, via Guayaquil, and landed in paradise, granted my wild imagination far exceeded the reality, I really had expected scrupulously clean buildings, and streets, zero litter and picture perfect town, but the reality is a living town, with everyday people going about their every day business. It is so clear that once upon time the local population wasn`t expecting the deluge of tourists that it is encountering today. Was I disappointed? Not in the slightest. San Cristobal is just raw and beautiful. Yes, you are going to encounter building works and litter, and why? Tourism. It comes at a price. Take the photos and leave only footprints, everything about that statement applies here. From the moment we landed all we saw was the raw beauty, spoilt only in places by the every expanding need to accommodate tourism The road was less than perfect, we loved it. There was building taking place, we accepted it. We saw the wild animals, we respected them, their privacy, their space. they were here first. Who didn`t? Tourists, not all I assure you, but we saw more than one silly bint with a camera and a ` I`m going kiss a seal because you can`t and shouldn`t but I`m going to anyway because it looks good on my insta` attitude * disclaimer I am not and I emphatically repeat NOT referring to my little highly respected miss.tiff. If you cant be bothered to respect the delicate balance that is the Galapagos, stay away. Rant over.

San Cristobal. Yes, you can fly direct. The cutest little airport ever. You can see the entrance, exit, both sides and the baggage claim without moving your feet. Our room was less than 5 mins away from the airport, we could have walked but the taxi driver was just so obliging. Yes, I know about the carbon footprint etc, but our bags are heavy, it has been a very long day and the taxi drivers need to earn/eat as much as we do. We dropped the bags at our room, locked up and left again. We only have 4 days on this amazing Island and we were not for wasting any time. Are we here on a budget or are we planning to splurge? Budget. I assure you. First place, walk and explore the town of San Cristobal. Nothing prepares for you more for this beautiful island than this pretty little town. And seals. Everywhere. When the huge signs at the airport warn you to keep more than 2 metres away from any animal, I wish they had mentioned "watch your feet" the seals/sealions literally lie anywhere they chose. In the road, the gutters, park benches, on the beaches, on boats, in the middle of the narrow path you are walking down  cue seal stand off.  they are everywhere, how many photos did I take? 100s of course! We walked slightly out of town to the Interpretation centre, it was free to enter and was the start of many different walking trails. We aimed for the one that ended at a beach. Beach, Pelicans, Seals (seals or sealions or both, we never could quite figure out which was which) delicately scented Paradise is the best way I can describe it. To sit on a beach, with beautiful clear blue water, surrounded by these amazing and charismatic animals was a dream come true. You chose your spot, keeping to the two metre distance rule, and there you have your own little spot in paradise, fabulous right up to the part when Stuart the Seal decides your patch of sand is way better than his. You move. Not him, Shift. Now. Its his sand, his beach, and he knows it, you common little human, shift your little bunny butt right now. Do the seals smell? yes. yes they do. very much so. My little .1 bunny said I shouldn`t mention this, but I cant help it. My poor little bunny nose was assaulted all afternoon, little bunny and big bunny have no sense of smell, so they were in blissful ignorance of my poor traumatized nose. Would I sit all day on that beach again? Of course I would, id just bring a small scent bottle and apply it frequently. Our day ended at a beach bar with hanging seat hammocks, before making our way to the town beach with the best sunset. The sunset was 6.15pm according to Google, so at 5.45 we plonked ourselves on said beach and waited. and waited. Everyone else seemed to think the sun set at 7.15, which it did, but we didn`t question it. The reason why will come later. Day 2. El Junco/Tortoise Sanctuary/Beach. We took a taxi, (we were initially quoted $80 but we agreed on 60 as all research online had suggested that $60 was the accepted fare for this trip. El Junco, first stop. the largest freshwater lake in the Galapagos, with a great view. Unless of course it is completely shrouded in mist and you cant actually see anything. What does it look like? I don`t know, because... Next stop, the Tortoise Centre. We arrived to an empty car park and a desk with one man and a piece of paper. Had we pre booked? No, we hadn`t as we couldn`t find any relative information online. Never mind the guide said, pay your taxi driver 10$ each (?) and I`ll take you on a personal tour now. That suits. San Cristobal Tortoise Sanctuary. Absolute joy of a place. The guide spoke beautiful accented English, was funny, droll, informative and clearly loved his job. We learned so much about tortoises that trip, and they were everywhere. They were in a free, but protected environment, they could wander as far as they liked, but given their food was growing all around them, they stayed close by. From the Tortoise Centre, we then went to Punta Chino, or Puerto Chino beach for 2 hours of paradise. Day 3 found us back at the Interpretation Centre, this time heading for the snorkelling cove of Muelle Tijeretas. A small but slightly crowded decking area served as the jumping in point for swimming. Calm clear waters and more seals! You can try as hard as you like to avoid them and to stay the required 2 metres away, but if they want to come and say hello to you in the water, they will.

Santa Cruz Island. We had ferry tickets booked for the 7am crossing with instructions to be at the dock at 6.15am. We were there. Nobody else was. Silent. Dark. Still. How odd. Eventually the harbour master came to us and asked our business, we pointed to our watch and said 6.15 for 7 am Ferry?, to which he laughed and pointed to his watch. 5.15. Yep, we just spent 4 days on San Cristobal, having not adjusted our watches to Galapagos time. Hence the sitting on a beach waiting for a sunset that was an hour later than we thought. Well at least we got to see the Sun rise!

The ferryboat, more a large speedboat with seating for 30 ish people than an actual ferry was exceptionally comfortable if you`re into boats and water. This bunny is not, so the 2 hour crossing was a miserable affair. Bunnies and boats just don`t mix.

Puerto Ayora. The largest town on Santa Cruz, actually the only town, unless you count the tiny 2 or 3 house villages scattered along the road from town to airport, and a compete contrast to Puerto Moreno on San Cristobal. A much bigger town, and quite the maze. Definitely not as pretty as Puerto Moreno, and with a lot less seals. Our first stop was the Darwin Centre, rated as the finest tourist attraction/conservation centre on Santa Cruz. To say we were disappointed would be an understatement. We had most definitely been spoilt by the Tortoise centre on San Cristobal, the Darwin centre, with its insistence that everybody has a guide (to stop tourists picking up/stealing tortoises...What!!!!) whilst excellent, was a poor comparison. Our group was large, the guide spoke very limited English and was very difficult to understand, and the whole experience was an unenthusiastic tour of a tortoise conservation centre delivered in a of matter of fact mumbling monologue. What they are doing there is exceptionally brilliant. The Giant tortoise, or Tortuga Grande has had a traumatic history, and the Galapagos sanctuaries are doing an amazing job restoring their rightful place on the islands. Don`t miss the Darwin centre, our experience was probably the exception rather than the norm. Day 2 Tortuga Beach. Without doubt a long long walk, but not difficult. A well paved path meanders from town to beach. You cannot get lost. Go prepared with water and food if required, as there is nothing at the beach but sand, sea, seals, sharks and Darwin finches. Delighted to say no cafes, no beach huts, no silly banana boats, just pure white unspoilt beaches and beautiful waters. Tortuga beach is just so picture perfect, apart from the fact that you cannot and should not swim there due to the exceptionally dangerous currents. Never fear, just a short walk up the beach and take a right and behind, I cannot describe it any other way, but behind the wild sea shore of Tortuga Beach, is Tortuga Bay. A perfect little millpond bay of crystal clear waters, small hammerhead sharks, and an infinite number of Darwin finches. the cutest, and nosiest little birds you will ever come across. If you do not fancy the long walk back, there is a water taxi that calls by for any wanting passengers.

 Day 3. little bunny fancied a boat trip, whereas us two older bunnies did not. For $35 little bunny did the Bay Islands trip, a 4 hour trip taking in lava tunnels, shark snorkelling, blue footed boobies and Iguanas. follow the trip @miss.tiff.travels . Whilst waiting for the boat to appear we watched a huddle of Pelicans quivering at the dockside, on closer inspection, the Pelicans were watching a fisherman carve up a freshly caught yellowfin tuna, and their excitement was palpable. With little bunny on her way to the Lava tunnels etc, Mr and Mrs Bunny took the opportunity to take the challenge of walking through town, with a mission to find coffee, cake, beer, and no TV. This was the day England were playing Holland, and 2 footy mad people wanted to watch it on catch up. Day 4. Not the driest start to a day, so instead a very leisurely breakfast, a walk into town for some window shopping, then as the day got brighter, we caught a taxi to Playa El Garrapatero. In our short but perfect time in the Galapagos we had only spotted one blue footed booby, and El Garrapatero was our last chance to see this elusive bird. A perfect beach, yes, a blue footed doofer with a beak? nope, we lucked out on that. There was a chance we could have spotted one from the kayaks that were available from the beach, but 2 chubby bunnies and a little bunny with a very expensive camera didn`t think it was worth all the effort.

Leaving day. With a plane to catch in the afternoon, we got a taxi to the airport, via El Chato, about $10 each, more Tortoise! you simply cannot have enough Giant Tortoise photos. The Tortuga here are amongst the biggest on the Islands. And they are allowed to `run` using the term loosely, wild. No boundaries, no fences, these fabulous reptiles, can be seen in the fields as you drive to El Chato, on the roads, near the trees. For a bunny more used to seeing sheep and cows in fields, spotting giant tortoises in the wild made me proper giggle. What an amazing end to a bucket list dream destination. But Wait !!! What`s that? After arriving at the airport, taxi, boat, bus.. we spotted our last elusive animal, another reptile, the land Iguana. $300 unaffordable trip to see them, or free at the airport.

Galapagos, you are beyond amazing. A dream come true, and one we shall all treasure for a lifetime. May your shores remain ever pristine, and let not tourism spoil your magic.